Showing posts with label Bourg d'Oisans. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bourg d'Oisans. Show all posts

Monday, July 12, 2010

Stage 7 - l'Alpe d'Huez & Col du Lautaret

On Monday 28th of June we had a well deserved rest day at our campsite in Bourg d'Oisans, the small town that sits at the base of the road to Alpe d'Huez.  The following day's stage would see us tackling d'Huez and the Col du Lautaret which was just up the road.  Looking at the itinerary for Stage 7 (which included 2 large climbs) a few of the group decided that they would ride up l'Alpe d'Huez on the rest day, and then just head straight for the Lautaret the following day.  I decided that a rest day was supposed to be just that, so I planned to have a bit of a sleep in, a large brekie in Bourg d'Oisans, some time by the pool and a few beers while watching the Dutch game in the World Cup.  It was a glorious day and I managed to do everything that I had planned, including paying a visit to a nice cycling shop in Bourg where I picked up a new jersey.

Being fairly dehydrated after many hot days in the saddle, I drank too much of arguably the worst hydration beverage known to man, beer!  I got the skinny on d'Huez from some of the lads who had been up there.  It sounded fairly punishing but the more stories that trickled back, the more I wanted to give it my best shot and try to get a decent time.  Eamon, the Aussie photographer, had managed an amazing time of just under the hour mark at 59mins.  To put that in a small bit of context...  The following times were recorded from 14.5km from the finish:


Rank Time Name Year Nationality
1 37' 35" Marco Pantani 1997  Italy
2* 37' 36" Lance Armstrong 2004  United States
3 38' 00" Marco Pantani 1994  Italy
4 38' 01" Lance Armstrong 2001  United States
5 38' 04" Marco Pantani 1995  Italy
6 38' 23" Jan Ullrich 1997  Germany
7 38' 34" Floyd Landis 2006  United States
8 38' 35" Andreas Klöden 2006  Germany
9* 38' 37" Jan Ullrich 2004  Germany
10 39' 02" Richard Virenque 1997  France
11 39' 06" Iban Mayo 2003  Spain
12* 39' 17" Andreas Klöden 2004  Germany
13* 39' 21" Jose Azevedo 2004  Portugal
14 39' 28" Miguel Induráin 1995  Spain
15 39' 28" Alex Zülle 1995  Switzerland
16 39' 30" Bjarne Riis 1995  Denmark
17 39' 31" Carlos Sastre 2008  Spain
18 39' 44" Gianni Bugno 1991  Italy
19 39' 45" Miguel Induráin 1991  Spain
20 40' 00" Jan Ullrich 2001  Germany
21 40' 46" Fränk Schleck 2006  Luxembourg
22 40' 51" Alexander Vinokourov 2003  Kazakhstan
23 41' 18" Lance Armstrong 2003  United States
24 41' 50" Laurent Fignon 1989  France
25 41' 50" Luis Herrera 1987  Colombia
26 42' 15" Pedro Delgado 1989  Spain
27 45' 20" Gert-Jan Theunisse 1989  Netherlands
28 45' 22" Fausto Coppi 1952  Italy
29 48' 00" Greg Lemond 1986  United States
30 48' 00" Bernard Hinault 1986  France

The increased speed in the 1990s had been attributed to Erythropoietin or EPO. Riders with sub-40m times, such as Alex Zülle, Riis, and Virenque, have admitted using such products. Landis subsequently had a positive drugs test. There is also strong evidence that Pantani, who has the fasted recorded time, took EPO. Coppi has been listed with 45m 22s for 1952.



On awakening on the morning of Stage 7 I found that I was a tad anxious due to one too many beers the night before and from having built up this day in my head for quite a bit of time beforehand.  Alpe d'Huez is afterall the cycling mecca!  Our campsite was practically sitting on the start of the ascent so I figured it would be a good idea to go for a warm up spin before attempting the climb.  When I had around 10km on the clock I headed back in the direction of d'Huez and so began the mytical ballbreaker.  The climb is 13.8 km at an average 8.1% (1130 m), with 21 hairpins (les 21 virages) marked with signs honoring each of the Tour de France/Alpe d'Huez stage winners. Since the Tour has now used Alpe d'Huez more than 21 times, the lower signs have been doubled up as you'll notice on the first bend with a double panel honoring both Fausto Coppi and Lance Armstrong; Fausto was the first Tour winner of Alpe d'Huez in 1952 and Lance was the 22nd winner in the year 2000. I had been informed beforehand that the finish line lay after 14.5kms so not to stop when I reached the little village but to go approximately 2km further up the road.


The first 2 or 3 kms or so are quite steep at around 10-11% gradient.  I have ridden steeper roads at home but generally at a relatively slow pace and not against the clock.  I was keenly aware of my heart rate and breathing which after just a few hundred metres were both pounding and laboured.  I slowed down a small bit so as to avoid "blowing up" before I had even reached hairpin number 3.  At each hairpin there is a leveling out for a second or two before the road kicks up again.  The small respite isnt sufficient to recover but enough to get you out of a hole, so to speak.  I realised that I was probably carrying a bit too much stuff on my bike so I shed my extra water bottle, my rain jacket, pump and saddle pouch into a ditch on the fly.  As it was very early in the morning there weren't many other cyclists in the vacinity, so I would collect the stuff on the way down and felt it would be safe enough.  As it turned out it would be more than safe! (see below)

I don't remember much of the climb except to say that it was pretty tortuous, given the speed that I was ascending.  Not very fast for a professional athlete, but for a humble Leitrim lad it was the upper extent of my cycling capability.  There were a few occassions where I thought I was going to have to stop and spew on the famed surface.  As the road evened out towards the top of the climb and the village of Huez, I was sure I was going to break the 60 min mark and knowing I was close gave me the drive to pedal harder.  I passed under what appeared to be the finish line but remembered that I still had 2kms to go so on I went into a tunnel and up out of the village in the direction of lots of shallets and ski lifts.  Not really what I remembered from the TV.  My odometer read 14.7km and I was in no-mans land.  My timer read 1h 2mins, damnation!  Having said that, I was still happy with my time but felt distinctly underwhelmed at the misplaced finish line.  There is simply no comparison between the top of d'Huez and the likes of say, Galibier.  One is a ski station, and one is the top of a great mountain with magnificent views.  Perhaps if there had been a million odd screaming fans atop d'Huez I would have felt differently.
Ski station on the top of l'Aple d'Huez - where are all the screaming fans??
Finish line, but not the official finish line for timing purposes. Confusing!
And so I was absolutely bollixed.  It was not long after 8 in the morning and my heart rate had already reached 190bpm!  The trouble was that I still had around 90kms to travel to the end of the day's stage.  I felt quite unwell as I got off the bike at the "arrivee" but recovered quickly with a coffee.  I was looking forward to the descent as I hadn't really seen anything on the way up.  The hairpins on the way down would mean a technical descent but technical descents are the ones I most enjoy.  By this stage there were plenty of cyclists making the trip upwards.  I dropped like a stone, trying to pinpoint the location of the gear I had thrown from the bike on the way up.  "No, not here, don't think this is the place, maybe around the next bend, no, not here either...".  I realised that I was close to the bottom and only one place had stood out as the potential location of my stuff.  Shit!  I was going to have to turn back.  Such was the speed of the descent that I was probably about 2 or 3 kms below where i wanted to be.  The lads shot on past me.  I couldn't believe that I was going to have to cycle back up.  Exactly NOT what I needed.  I even considered not going back up at all, but sense prevailed and with heavy legs I reached the place I had thrown my gear and collected each piece at small intervals from each other.  Pete, Rune and Greg thanfully had waited for me at the bottom.  I didn't relish the idea of cycling alone up the Col du Lautaret.  Greg paced us up as far as the lunch stop and as was now customary, the temperature had increased dramatically.  There was a section of newly tarred road where the loose chippings stuck to our tires.  It made the going hard for a few kms.  Although the Lautaret wasn't too steep (6% average), after the efforts on d'Huez it felt like a long steady climb.  A blessing by way of a few clouds came our way and we were treated to some light rain at one stage.  With a few kms remaining I decided to make a beeline for the summit, so as not to prolonged the pain any longer than was absolutely necessary.  We had been at the top of the Col du Lautaret after descending Col du Galibier a few days earlier.  Not much to see here, so we headed south to our next camp at Briancon.  A big thanks to Pete for towing me home!
Almost the end of a really hard day @ Col du Lautaret, Galibier is in the background somewhere...

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Stage 6 - Col du Télégraphe/Galibier (Lanslevillard to Bourg d'Oisans)

Sunday's Stage 6 included 2 climbs: the Col du Télégraphe and the infamous Tour de France climb, the Col du Galibier.  I was really excited about cycling up the Galibier but after studying the profile and bearing in mind that the Télégraphe had to be overcome first, I was sure it was going to be a tough day at the office. 
Monastery on a hill near Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne

Before beginning the Télégraphe ascent we had a 44km warmer-upper along a main road with a slightly downhill gradient.  We ripped down the road in "train" formation, to use some cycling parlance.  For those of you not familiar with such terminology, a train is a formation of cyclists who ride in a bunch or group in order to conserve energy and more importantly to go faster by slipstreaming the rider in front.  Each rider takes his turn at the front breaking the wind (and sometimes breaking wind!).  This is the fundamental reason why the peloton will almost always catch a breakaway rider in a race.  But I digress... We made it to Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne at the foot of the Télégraphe in no time, tried in vain to find a coffee shop for a quick espresso, and instead proceeded up the hill.  It was around 10am and already quite warm.  Some sections of the first climb were steep enough, and there were tonnes of switchbacks.
 Signage for the 2 climbs which lay ahead

With such a profile it is possible to gain altitude quickly and after only 20 mins or so I could see Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne way down below.  The Col du Télégraph is so named because at the very top of the climb is a series of radio and TV towers. It's a rather large cement structure that can be seen from a long distance away.  The climb itself is 11.8 km long, gaining 856 m. in height (an average of 7.3%). The maximum gradient is 9.8% at the summit which didn't take me too long to reach.  To my surprise I was, for the 2nd consecutive day, the first to the top.  The summit itself is not like your typical col, but serves I guess as a prelude to Galibier.  We had lunch here, because it seemed the most opportune time and point to do so, after which we descended a small distance into the ski town of Valloire and started the long steady climb upwards one again.
Start of Galibier ascent outside Valloire (Limey dead ahead!)

I got talking to a German girl and her friend from Bristol who told me that he had been up the Galibier once before at the tender age of 14.  Although the girl was riding strong out of Valloire, we dropped her when the gradient really started to kick up with around 10kms to go.  The actual climb to the summit starts at Valloire and is 18.1 km long at an average of 6.9% (height gain: 1245 m). The maximum gradient is 10.1% at the summit.
Switchbacks towards summit of Galibier
Again, it was scorcius maximus as we rode up through the valley, but it was pleasant and the scenery was glorious, with flowers, green fields and little streams flowing through.  Generally speaking, the further up you go on an Alpine climb the greater vegetational changes you will see and what was once a shady tree filled climb becomes a treeless, fairly barren landscape with large ice sections everywhere.  As promised by the limey from Bristol, the going got really tough as we rounded a corner with around 8kms to go and at a height above sea level of around 2000m.  Thankfully the temperature had cooled a bit, but that provided only a small comfort as I looked along a road above me that seemed to be never ending.  On Galibier and a few other climbs there are signs every kilometre that tell you how much you have to climb before you reach the summit, as well as the a gradient indicator.  The jury is still out on whether or not I like them.  Sometimes you forget what the previous sign had said and instead of 4kms to go, you have 6kms, such is your inability to think straight with the lack of oxygen and the constant agony of the climb.  Meanwhile motorbikes are whizzing by on the wrong side of the road gaining altitude at a rate that seems infinitely higher than the humble cyclist whos peddles are barely turning.  As soon as I hit the 10% gradient of the final couple of kms I drop to my last gear and grit my teeth looking up at around 5 or 6 switchbacks to the summit.  The last part is an absolute killer and I'm gasping for breath as I power up over the top to be greeted by a couple of the Aussie blokes who've summited before me.  Wow, what a ride.  Boy was I happy to be at the top.  The Galibier proved a really tough cookie but I had a feeling a deep elation having conquered it.
 Looking back down at the ascent, good job!

Rune, Greg, Damo, Colly, Blake, Adrian on the summit of Galibier
As it was Sunday we had a lot of traffic to contend with on the decent.  The 12% gradient on the southerly descent of the Galibier towards Col du Lautaret was very fast and I was conscious of not overshooting any of the hairpins for fear of ploughing into a vehicle coming in the other direction.  We still had 48kms to our camping site in Bourg d'Oisans and because of the said traffic the brake shoes on my bike got a good shaving on the way down.  We passed over the route we would be taking out of Bourg d'Oisans 2 days later, albeit in a different direction.  An Irish guy with a board.ie cycling jersey joined our little train, consisting of Tim, Pete and I.  We exchanged only a couple of words before we went in opposite directions at the roundabout entering Bourg d'Oisans.
12% gradient descent with no barriers - Hairy!!

Spirits were high back in camp due to a long awaited rest day we were due the following day.  We were joined by Simon Hayes, editor of Bicycling Austrialia and freelance photographer called Eamon Fitzpatrick, also from Australia, although the name might suggest otherwise.  Simon was going to cycle with us to Nice, and Eamon was going to take some action shots of us on our bikes.  We had another great dinner thanks to the Bike Dreams crew and looked forward to lounging around the pool the following day at the campsite.  Tuesday would see us tackle the most legendary of all cycling routes, the paved road up L'Alpe D'Huez. SihAmon HayesH

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Stage 5 - Col de L'Iseran (Bourg St. Maurice to Lanslevillard)

On friday 25th we were joined by Peter Ivin (twin brother of Chris) at our campsite in Bourg-Saint-Maurice, a commune in the Savoie (as in Savoy) department in the Rhône-Alpes region in south-eastern France.  Bourg, as it is commonly known, is the last large town along the Tarentaise valley in the heart of the French Alps and sits at around 700m above sea level.  This meant that we would start the following day's spin up to the Col de L'Iseran ascending the Alp, so Peter would find himself battling a mountain from the get go.  I was interested to see how he would find it, as we already had a few decent climbs in our legs at that stage. 
As I had finally settled into a pretty decent sleeping pattern I was feeling a lot better in the mornings.  Nonetheless I was still struggling with chowing down on museli and granola, peanutbutter sandwiches and fruit at 7am.  Invariably I would end up sitting across from young Tom Wakeling from Australia for what seemed like an eternity, munching away like a pair young calves eating calf nuts. 

And so I was late again, but only marginally so.  I noticed that some of the group were struggling, starting out as we were on a 9% gradient out of Bourg.  I spotted an eager Pete Ivin putting in a big effort and his brother Chris reigning him in so he didn't explode after a few kms with his eagerness.  Luckily I was fresh enough to push on up past the peloton and soon enough I reached Tim "timmanybeers" Dowling, a hardy farmer from outside Sydney.  He had acquired his nickname for his voracious appetite for the sauce, an appetite that would put many an Irishman to shame.  Tim could easily sink 10 cans of beer of an everning and be up bright an early the next morning ready for another hard day's slog on the bike.  Cycling in the Alpes was probably easy for him, considering that just before he had left Australia for the trip he was busy building a road!  I was eager to get to the lunch stop on top of L'Iseran because my chainset sounded like it had a little tweety bird installed in it, so I hiked up the pace and soon I was out on my own on the mountain. 

Starting from Bourg-Saint-Maurice, the Col de l'Iseran is 48 km long. Over this distance, the climb is 1955 m (an average percentage of 4.1%). The last part of the climb starts at Val-d'Isère, the famous ski resort: 15 km at a consistent average of 6% (climbing 895 m).  It was a long climb but I felt fairly comfortable, and reached the summit ahead of the rest of the group with a little grin on my face.  I could hear the legendary cycling commentary of Phil Liggett in my head, "Colly Murray, King of the Mountains for Stage 5 of Les Dix Alpes". It was a beautifully sunny day on top and we had a great lunch while basking in the sunshine. 
 Summit of L'Iseran
Richard & Jaap (Dutch Support Crew) & Colly


The decent was an interesting one.  It started off really well due to the sprawling landscape that was laid out before us.  Picturesque fields, streams and waterfalls everywhere.  It wasn't quite as barren as some of the other descents, persumably due to the aspect of the mountain?  After a good few kms, it flattened out and once again I found myself in no man's land having dropped a few of the others on the descent.  There was a fairly vicious headwind which made the going hard, and suddenly there was another little col in front of me.  I checked the map and profile and saw no mention of it, and I still remember the name of it vividly (lividly), Col du Madeline.  It was a bit of a ball breaker but I was soon over it and another nice twisty descent into the town of Lanslevillard.  When the rest of the gang started arriving back at the campsite, the first few lines muttered were something like, "Where did that little f*cker of a Col appear out of?". 
 Spectacular descent from L'Iseran

5 Stages and halfway there.  The next day we would head for Bourg d'Oisans where we would have a rest day followed by the legendary climb up to L'Alpe D'Huez.  I could hardly wait! But first we would have to reach the summit of the Col du Télégraphe at 1,566 m and the Col du Galibier at 2646m.  Lots of climbing ahead.